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Buying a Puppy
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Why a Keeshond
When choosing a breed of dog, as a family pet, a companion or to show, there are many factors to consider. So, why a Keeshond?
The Keeshond, a member of the Utility group, is a characteristically alert and hardy dog. Very impressive in full coat, he naturally stands with his feet planted firmly apart, tail curled tightly over his back and with erect ears carried high on his head. His movement is quick, light and decisive. Their constant alertness makes the Keeshond a wonderful watch dog. They will listen and notice all that goes on, even when apparently not doing so. Visitors will know their arrival has been detected, then be eagerly greeted as if they were long-lost friends. Easier to groom than his double coat would suggest he loves exercise and will take all that you give him. Easy to feed and with an independence of mind he gives a great deal of companionship to all ages.
The Keeshond, as a breed, is numerically small and as such there is every probability, when compared to the more common breeds, there will be fewer dogs entered at each show. You might think this will increase your chances of being placed in your class. This is a foolhardy assumption. Competition is just as intense amongst these fewer exhibitors as those where the breed is numerical stronger. Indeed it will always be difficult to get past the handful of dogs, in every breed, which are the consistent winners.
Despite the breeding (pedigree) behind your Keeshond, you will be very lucky if you are highly successful from the outset. It should be remembered that the learning curve you are embarking on will be long and from your very first show, with your very first show dog, you will be learning the ropes. First dog I hear you say. If bitten by the breed and the show bug a second Keeshond will soon follow. During this learning process you will become known in the Keeshond community and will yourself become an established exhibitor. Ultimately you may, with your own home-bred stock, win with a degree of consistency. It is therefore essential if you intend to show your first Keeshond you exercise a great deal of care when selecting your puppy.
A dog or a bitch?
You may, by now, have decided on the Keeshond as the bred of dog you wish to own, but now the most terrible of dilemmas. Should I purchase a dog or a bitch? This simple question is of equal, if not greater, significance than selecting your breed of dog. You may have previously owned a dog or bitch, and wish to use this experience to help you decide. However, if you are undecided please carefully consider all the aspects, of each sex, before making your mind up.
The obvious difficulty with a bitch, is her season. All bitches differ, although this normally occurs in the Keeshond every six to eight months, and has two affects. Firstly, whilst in season she will not be able to be shown and, secondly, her season will cause her coat to shed - delaying her return to the show ring. Yes, it has been heard that vets 'can give you something' to alter a bitch's seasons, however tampering with nature in this way can easily have a detrimental effect on her temperament as well as possibly other more serious long-term effects. Despite being unethical is this a risk worth taking, purely to enter a particular show under a certain judge. Putting the issue of the bitches season aside they will normally live together, with members of the same sex, better than dogs do. This is especially true if one or more of the male dogs concerned has been used at stud.
Given that a bitch's season can create the disappointment of missed show entries, it could be easy to think that owning a dog would be the answer. Unfortunately, this is not the case as dogs also shed their coats albeit not as frequently. Besides this shedding of the coat, dogs can quite easily become distracted if they have been around bitches in-season and can fail to perform in the show ring. Unfortunately this includes in-season bitches, of any breed, which are taken to the show. To add further insult to injury a dog can also lose weight and condition if he is troubled by bitches in season, although this is normally the case when both males and females live together. A further consideration with males, which is not as significant with Keeshonds as in the larger breeds, is their added height and weight. This combination gives the dog increased power and strength, although not difficult to control it will initially surprise the unwary.
Having compared the differing virtues of dogs and bitches, the problem is further complicated by breeders, as in the interests of their breeding programmes tend to keep the more bitches than dogs. Although this makes it harder to purchase a pick of litter bitch it does ensure the quality of the bitches being exhibited, which in turn makes it more difficult for the novice to win. However, logically speaking, with breeders wishing to keep the best bitch, as opposed to the best dog, there will always be more good dogs available for novice owners to buy and show. That said, the choice of the litter, whether it be dog or bitch, is a judgement on what the breeder perceives to be best. This judgement, when the litters is six to eight old, is based upon the breeders experience and as such may not necessarily be your choice. There have been plenty of cases where a puppy has failed to live up to the expectations of the breeder and 'disappeared' from the show ring.
You may think a bitch will be better, and more loving, companion than a dog - but is this really the case? Those who have owned both dogs and bitches often comment that the companionship offered by the two sexes is identical. Whatever the sex, the way you handle and train your dog will ultimately determine how you, yourself, are treated in return.
The decision on whether to purchase a dog or a bitch is yours, the purchaser, alone. If you are determined you want to a puppy to show, not only will you have to convince the breeder that you are committed to the show scene but you may have to wait a considerable amount of time. This is especially the case if your desire is for a bitch. In any case, whatever your choice, don't allow yourself to be talked into the opposite sex by the breeder, solely because that is all that is available for sale.
Where do you begin?
A dog, irrespective of whether it is for a show or pet home, should only really be purchased from a reputable breeder, usually one who shows his or her own dogs with some success. However if you are novice, or the breed is new to you, how do you ascertain who are reputable Keeshond breeders.
In this 'information based' age the ability to gather information appears endless, so as well as collecting names and addresses there is a necessity to ensure its accuracy. To this end, it is hoped, that you will find this site which provides points of contact for the Club Secretary as well as a Directory of Keeshond Breeders beneficial. From the Directory of Keeshond Breeders it is possible to be redirected to their personal web sites, where they exist. The Kennel Club, through their Accredited Breeders Scheme, are also another valuable source of information. Of course, the final decision as to who you should contact, and ultimately buy from, must be yours, and yours, alone but the above will at least provide you with an essential, if not invaluable, starting point.
Contacting the Breeders
You are now in a position to contact the breeders to ascertain, firstly, if there are any puppies presently available or, if not, are there any future plan for a litter and, secondly, what is the cost of a puppy.
As well as talking to the breeders by phone, or over the Internet, you should consider visiting some dogs shows to see them and their Keeshonds. The dates and venues of all local and national dog shows, as well as a listing of the breeds being exhibited at each show, can be found in the publications 'Our Dogs' and 'Dog World'. These weekly papers are available from all good newsagents, but may well have to be ordered specially from your local paper shop.
Obviously if you are only keen to see Keeshonds you would only plan to visit those shows where they are listed in show schedules. Therefore before committing yourself to visit an Open Show, and to prevent disappoint, it would be prudent to contact the Show Secretary (once entries have closed), and after explaining your intentions ask him to confirm if any Keeshond entries have been received. It should be noted that details of Championship Show entries can be found in the weekly dog press. Alternatively, you could arrange to meet a breeder and Keeshonds at a specific show.
The dates of all General Championship shows, where Keeshonds are scheduled to be exhibited, as well as all Keeshond Club Championship and Open shows can be accessed from The Show Ring.
At a dog show you will have the opportunity to watch the breed being judged as well as being able to talk directly with exhibitors and breeders. Whilst the dogs are being shown you will start to get some idea of the type of breeding which personally appeals to you as well as which dogs conform closest to the Kennel Club Breed Standard. While all dogs vary in appearance the closer they conform to this Standard, the more successful they will be. If you are a novice exhibitor you will probable need help interpreting the finer points of the Breed Standard, however understanding it will help you avoid some elementary mistakes when selecting your puppy. The Keeshond Illustrated Breed Standard, available to purchase as a handy pocket companion, clearly depicts though text, drawings and photographs all the individual points of the written Kennel Club Breed Standard
When watching the judging, especially as a novice, you shouldn't place to much emphasis on the placing of the exhibits at any particular show. Each judge has a differing opinion, so a dog gaining a first under one judge may not be thought so highly by another. Exhibitors that you should take particular notice of are those, especially at Championship shows, who are consistently placed with their home-bred dogs. Although not always gaining first place, the fact that they are constantly placed under a variety of judges is an indication to the quality of the breeding.
Although All Breed Open and Championship shows will provide a general understanding, really the only shows to attend for the purposes of finding out about the Keeshond are the Keeshond Club Championship or Open shows. If you are interested in visiting one of these shows, the dates and venues can be found here. If you do intend to visit one of these shows, but do not plan to meet a particular breeder, could you please let the Keeshond Club Secretary know so that you are not neglected. You do not have to be a member of the Keeshond Club to visit these shows, however if you do become a member you will receive club newsletters which provide information about the breed as well as new about forthcoming events.
It was suggested earlier that, while at a show, you could talk directly to exhibitors and breeders. However, it should be stressed that exhibitors may not appreciate being distracted by your questioning, irrespective of how innocent it may seem to you, as they are about to enter the show ring. It also should be remembered that some of the exhibitors entering the show ring are handling Keeshonds that they themselves have purchased, as opposed to bred. So who are the breeders and when is the best time to talk to them?
With regards to the question, who are the breeders? This is answered through the show catalogue, on sale at the show ground, which will give you all the information you require. It lists for each breed being shown, in alphabetical order, the names and contact details of all the exhibitors entered at the show. Beneath each of these entries will be listed the dogs entered by that exhibitor. For each dog the catalogue will show its exhibit number, name, sex, date of birth, the name of the breeder, the dogs parentage and the classes into which the dog will be exhibited. Where the breeder is the exhibitor the catalogue will display the abbreviation 'Br. Exh.' in place of the breeders name within this listing.
As to, when to approach the breeders that you have identified? Really the best time, if you are arriving unannounced, so as to not to disturb their show preparations is on completion of the breed judging. The advantage of the consideration is that it would enable you to watch the judging enabling you to ascertain the breeder's stock you find most appealing. While at the ringside it would be foolhardy not to ask questions of the others, sat watching the judging, to either compliment or correct your thoughts. On completion of judging, and armed with your new found knowledge, you can make specific enquiries to the breeders you have shortlisted.
If you are keen to own a show dog it is now important that you make the breeder aware that you require a show puppy. Any breeder who values their reputation will not want to sell you a puppy, which they believe to be below show standard, if they know that it is to be taken into the show ring. Not only would this damage their reputation but you, too, would be disappointed of the failure of your dog to be placed. Unfortunately less experienced breeders may unwittingly sell a pet quality puppy for show, so it's essential that you do your homework and confirm both the credentials of the breeder and their stock.
After selecting your preferred breeder, and their stock, you will now unless you are extremely fortunate have to wait to obtain your show puppy, and very probably be prepared to travel. Although this wait will be frustrating it is worth remembering that those who rush into buying their first show dog are often disappointed as the quality of the dog may not come up to expectation
How to select the breeder
If you take the opportunity to visit a few shows, not only should you be noting the appearance and character of the dogs but you should be casting more than a cursory glance at the breeders who are exhibiting. A breeder that genuinely seems to care for her dogs, treating with kindness both in and out of the show ring, will logically speaking breed puppies with love, care and attention. This is an important factor, for a puppy which is offered little or no human affection, in his early weeks, can find it difficult to adjust to changes as he matures. This does not imply that a breeder should mollycoddle the puppies, but just be caring.
Another consideration is. Do you wish to buy from a breeder, who frequently produces litters and may have kennels, or from someone who breeds less often, as a hobby. There are pros and cons for each. A breeder who produces one or two litters a year is likely to spend more time with the puppies than a breeder who produces litters more frequently. However, to counteract this, the latter may employ a kennel helper who will be able spend time with the puppies. The smaller breeder, who is more likely to have raised the litter in the home, will have accustomed the puppies to the noise of the household - such as a vacuum cleaner - which may make it easier for your puppy to adapt to your home. However, those who produce fewer litters will in the end produce fewer puppies. This in turn means, if it is important to you, they will produce fewer puppies of show potential. The net result being that you may have to wait longer. Two further favourable indications as to the success of the breeder are. Does the breeder exhibit, and win with, their own home-bred dogs and secondly, have they sold successful dogs to other exhibitors. Ultimately you will have to assess the merits of the individual breeders but, in short, buy from someone you feel you can trust - even if it means you have to wait or travel a fair distance.
Unfortunately, for whatever their reason, those not directly involved with a particular dog may be reluctant to help a novice. That accepted, if you are a newcomer to dog showing, you may find it beneficial to buy from a breeder who is willing to give advice and introduce you to the show scene. Their help will be invaluable in subjects as grooming, presentation, ring-craft and what class it is best to enter.
As a novice you probably didn't realise there was so much to consider when buying a dog, whether it be to show or for companionship, and you haven't even got to selecting the puppy. You could now be in the position of waiting for a puppy. Yes a frustrating time, and probably even more so if you are waiting for a puppy to show. But, don't despair. Although this waiting will be trying the time can be put to good use. Keep going to shows, picking up as much information while watching how the exhibitors groom and present their Keeshonds. Then when the big day, you and your puppies debut, finally arrives you will be well prepared.
There is one other vital point to remember.
As you have been critical in the selection of your breeder, the breeder will be equally critical of you. No reputable breeder, from whatever breed, will want one of their puppies subjected to an unsuitable environment or possible ill treatment. Therefore you should not be offended by questions that could relate to your home, garden, family and working hours, to name but a few.
Breeding and stud terms
During your selection process, there is a possibility that you may be offered a bitch on 'breeding terms'. This is something favoured by some breeders and involves certain conditions to be set, and agreed, between you and the breeder. These conditions will vary from breeder to breeder, so if offered it is essential that not only are they set down in writing but both parties understand what they involve. Examples of these terms include (but are not limited to) stipulating which stud dog is used to produce the first litter and/or a puppy from that litter. It should be realised, that if the breeder stipulates a puppy bitch from the litter it will more than likely be the pick of litter. So if you had planned to breed a home-bred show bitch you will be left with, what in the (bitch's) breeder's opinion is, second best. Again it is reiterated you and the breeder may have different opinions, so his pick may be your second pick. It should be remembered that as you have seen the litter develop you may have seen something in the 'second best' that the breeder has missed.
Another example is where the breeder requires a pick of litter dog. In this case your desire to keep a home-bred show bitch will remain unchallenged. In either case, the singular advantage of clear and precise breeding terms is that it does allow the novice to buy, and show, a good quality bitch.
Despite the previously discussed loss of 'pick of litter' the other disadvantage of breeding terms is that it may require the bitch to be withdrawn from the show scene, irrespective of how well her show career is progressing, in order to honour a breeding agreement. Obviously this absence from the show ring will continue until her condition returns, perhaps many months beyond the sale of her litter.
Unfortunately there have been cases where breeding terms have lead to unpleasantness and disagreement between the two parties. So if they are offered extreme caution should be exercised and all involved should understand exactly what is required, when and by whom.
If you wish to buy a dog, he could be offered on 'stud terms'. This is where the breeder reserves the right to use him, at stud, without payment. Such agreements usually specify the number of occasions his services are to be made accessible, to the breeder, or may even restrict the bitches he can, or cannot, be used on. Stud agreements place less restrictions on showing than breeding terms do with a bitch, however it should be remembered that you will have to be the host to in-season bitches and their owners. Also, once used, a dog may tend to be less clean in the house and may even become more difficult to show as he can become both obsessed by bitches and aggressive towards other stud dogs.
You will also find that the purchase price of a puppy on breeding, or stud, terms will be less than that of one brought with no conditions attached. However to the uninitiated, especially if the quality of the puppy is outstanding, the price will be surprisingly high. So the whole experience of buying a puppy with show potential can prove to be an expensive one.
Partnership
If the breeder does not wish, for whatever reason, to relinquish ownership of a puppy she may suggest that you enter into a partnership with her. The breeder may be content to allow the dog to live with and be shown by you, however as a novice you may find the breeder wishing to exhibit the dog at the more prestigious shows. A partnership such as the latter is unlikely to give you, in your new found hobby, any form of satisfaction. Whatever the arrangement, whenever a show entry is made the names of all the owners, making up the partnership, must be entered on the entry form and will appear in the show catalogue.
Partnerships usually work best if the two (or more) people concerned actually know each other from the outset and having to work together for many years all involved must understand, as with breeding and stud terms, what is expected of them as their part of the agreement. From its inauguration, the partnership agreement should clearly define how such things as feeding costs, veterinary bills, show fees, advertising and travelling costs are split and who decides which shows the dog is exhibited at, and by whom. Depending upon the sex of the dog, owned by the partnership, agreement should also be reached as to how any income and expenditure should be divided in respect of stud fees or the sale of the puppies not forgetting who will have the final say when determining future matings.
It may appear premature to discuss all these factors, with the puppy only a few weeks old, but without everything being clearly defined from the outset the partnership will be in danger of failing which will ultimately lead to disappointment and bad feeling.
The age at which to buy
It has probably now been realised that breeders, looking at the long term, like to keep what they see as the best for themselves, but there is no 'magical' age when a puppy can be set aside as show quality. However by continually noting the good and bad points of each puppy as they develop, a breeder will, be able to assess the existence of any show potential. Therefore, it follows, the older the puppy the more confident the breeder will be as to whether or not the dog will be suitable for showing. In any case, it is accepted that by the time the puppies are eight weeks old their structure will be a miniature version of an adult and any show potential, noted as they were growing will be evident. In effect, at this age, the litter will be theoretically separated into those destined for 'show' and 'pet' homes.
Eight weeks is also the very minimum age at which you should expect to buy a puppy, and even then there is no guarantee that the 'show potential' will be transformed into 'show quality'. In a puppy so young, as far as a show career is concerned, there is still much that can go wrong. The second set of teeth, which begin to appear when the puppy is about four months old, may not form correctly and produce the incorrect bite. The bones of the legs, which will not be fully developed until the puppy is approximately one year old, may not grow as straight as they should, or the hind legs may grow disproportionately to the fore legs which will give an incorrect top-line. Therefore, with regards to show potential, the older the puppy the greater will be the certainty of the breeder's hunch (and that's all it is) being proven correct.
In cases where doubt exists between the potential of two puppies, a breeder may choose to run them both on (until they are five to six months old) prior to deciding which to keep and which to sell. Although you may be disappointed in not taking ownership of a younger puppy, there is every likelihood that buying one that has been 'run on' and rejected by a reputable breeder a better option than a 'show quality' puppy from someone with less experience or success.
Occasionally a breeder may offer a older dog for sale. This can be for a number of reasons, which include; a successful show dog being passed to another show-home in order to create room for another litter, a show dog whose career did not blossom as expected being retired to a pet home or even because of an unforeseen canine disagreement in the home. If you do take on an older dog it is essential that you are fully aware of the reason, or reasons, why it is being sold or passed on. In any event if a breeder does have to part with a successful show dog it
Selecting your puppy
As previously mentioned, at 8 weeks, the structure of a puppy Keeshond should be a miniature version of a adult and the breeder will also have assessed the attributes and quality of the litter. So what should you be looking for? As a novice it is all to easy to succumb, without question, to the knowledge of the breeder so the following 20 points may assist you in the final selection of your Keeshond puppy.
- A puppy that piddles when picked up or petted is a rarity and indicates unnatural nervousness. If you clap hands, loudly, most puppies will look up in surprise and curiosity.
- Puppies should be alert and full of devilment, they should come quickly and joyously when called.
- Their back should be short, sloping slightly downwards from top of the shoulders to the hips. If their back slopes towards the head, it should be considered a fault.
- The rib cage should be rounded and not slab-sided.
- There should be a good depth of chest and width between the front legs.
- Each leg should have plenty of bone, but without coarseness.
- Observe how the puppy trots to you, from the breeder, and back again.
- The tail should be up and lying close to the back, and set well forward from the points of the rump. It should always be part of the outline, neither curving upwards or appearing as an appendage.
- The muzzle should be black and not a mixture of black/grey/tawny.
- The spectacles should be present.
- The eyes should be almond in shape and very dark in colour. If they are round and bulge or be either to far apart or to close, it should be considered a fault.
- The eyes will actually be dark blue in a puppy, the darker the blue the darker the brown they will be in the future. You should beware when the eyes are not deep blue or when a lighter band of colour is perceptible around the perimeter of the eye
- The ears should be small triangular, mounted high on the head, carried erect and covered in velvety black hair. It should be considered a fault if they are big or wide set.
- If the eyes are not up check their placement and size, in proportion to the head, by laying the puppy on its back so that they fall back into somewhat the position they may be in later. At 12-16 weeks of age the ears should definitely be up.
- Testicles may be found in or right near the scrotum in most 8-12 week old (male) Keeshonds. Both testicles should have fully descended at 6 months of age.
- The puppy's head will appear to be to big for its body, but the skull should be wedge shaped and must have a definite indentation, or stop, between the eyes.
- The jaws should meet in front in a scissor bite, where the upper teeth just overlap those of the lower jaw. If the mouth is undershot or overshot it is a fault.
- The coat should be dense, with thick, downy undercoat and coarse guard hairs. When you run your hand toward the head the fur should show a light grey or pale cream undercoat beneath black tipped outer hairs which should feel slightly harsh.
- In 8-10 week old puppies the overall colouring and markings called for in the breed standard should be well indicated. Relatively minor faults of smutty colouring, darkish legs, black 'thumb marks' below the knees, black toe markings and creaminess around the ears often, but not always, clear as the puppy matures.
- It is important that the puppy's colouring be from shades of lightest grey or very light cream through medium grey or black. The general effect of the whole dog can vary from light to dark grey. At 8-10 weeks of age the tawniness in areas that should be light grey and/or a brown cast in the hair wherever black tipping should be present, could develop into serious faults.
The dogs name
Many people new to pedigree dogs are surprised by the length and flamboyant nature of the puppy's Kennel Club registered name. These names which are often strange and misspelt and must be no longer than twenty four letters, consist of two elements.
- The first part (consisting of one word) is the breeders affix. Similar to a trademark, which no one else may use, this is registered with the Kennel Club.
- The second part (which may consist of more than one word) is the dogs name. Again, this is registered with the Kennel Club and in general is original, insomuch as not having been used in the breed during the past ten years. Submitted by the breeder, to the Kennel Club, and often following a theme for the litter it is very unlikely that you will have been involved with, or have influence, as to its selection.
To increase the likelihood of the preferred name being accepted, by the Kennel Club, these restrictions can lead to longer, and often strangely spelt, names.
The Kennel Club registered name, although it may influence, will not determine your puppy's pet name.
Kennel Club registration
In order to show a dog it must be registered with the Kennel Club, and this registration must be applied for before entering its first show. A puppy can only be registered if it has been bred from a sire and dam who are themselves registered. This ultimately ensures that a puppy's pedigree is documented and traceable.
The breeder will have initially registered each puppy of the litter in her name and will at the time of purchase, or shortly afterwards, provide you with the Kennel Club registration certificate. Upon receipt you will able to transfer the ownership of the puppy to yourself by completing the 'Change of Ownership' certificate, found on the reverse of the registration certificate. Completing and returning this certificate, with the appropriate fee to the Kennel Club, will allow you to show your dog in your name.
However, the change of ownership will only be accepted if the breeder or, if applicable, all members of the partnership also sign this certificate. It is therefore important that to avoid any unnecessary delays this certificate, as with all Kennel Club documentation, is completed correctly.
You may decide to own the dog in partnership, say the breeder or another member of your family, rather than in your sole name. If this is he case all signatures relating to the partnership will always be necessary on any official Kennel Club documentation. Where a partnership exists and documentation is returned, to the Kennel Club, incorrectly completed, or with signatures missing, valuable time will be lost while paperwork is returned and resubmitted.
Page Last Updated: July 2007
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